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Smoke Type in Photoshop

Last week I decided to upgrade to the new Adobe apps, as usual I did my backups and of course I forgot very important things, such as my Photoshop Brushes and Patterns. I hate when that happens, but it does happen all the time. So I had to look for my brushes and I found some really cool new ones and decided to play a bit with them and with the new Adobe Photoshop.

In this tutorial I will show you how to create a smoke typography effect playing with some brushes and adjustment layers. It’s a very easy tutorial and you will be able to do the whole process in 5-10 minutes.

Step 1

Open Photoshop and create a new document, I used 1920×1200 pixels. Then apply a gradient, you could fill it with a gradient or apply a Layer Style. I used the layer style, Gradient Overlay. Use Radial for the Style and #07090a – #202b35 for the colors.

Step 2

Add some text in white then go to Filter>Blur>Motion Blur. Use 90º for the Angle, and 40 pixels for the Distance.

Step 3

Now go to Filter>Distort>Wave. use 3 for the Number of Generators, 10 and 346 for the Wavelength, and 5 and 35 for the Amplitude.

Smoke Typography

Step 4

Go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur. Use 10 pixels for the Radius. Then group the layer and rename the folder’s Blend Mode to Color Dodge. You will get a nice light effect.

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Making of Ford GT 40 in Vegas

I wanted to push myself on how far I could go, so I decided to build a piece capable to make an art statement; I didn’t want to feel that it was just another 3D model.

Being an automobile nut, I, like some of you, have had the idea of building a car from the first to the last bolt. I find out that for this task a good set of blueprints is never enough. I spent around a week collecting photographs before the beginning of the modeling process, and I was still collecting references at the end of the texturing and rendering steps.

My first advice to you will be, if you are trying to make a model above average, start with planes, boats or cars that had been restored. You will easily find part catalogues, illustrations, schemes and diagrams of objects with historic meaning. I made a quick selection of some of the GT-40 pictures I found during my research (Fig. 01).

I usually try as much as possible to start from spline cages. It comes very handy to have a tridimensional blueprint of your model; it will guide you making decisions about size, position, and where your components should be organized, even before you model the shell.

Later on, you can use the spline curves to loft panels that will be the base mesh of your car body.
Once I had my cage done, I started modeling the chassis using photo references (Fig. 02).

The next step was modeling all the components that have direct relationship with the chassis.

I always started creating primitives to establish rotation and proportions, and then I went in detail using pictures. Here once more I used techniques like nurbs revolves, lofts and extrusions than later on turned into polygons.

Finally, I used lattice and nonlinear deformers to achieve the desired shapes (Fig. 03, Fig. 04, Fig. 05).

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Working With Photographic Reference

Introduction:

This 3 part video tutorial by ten24’s James Busby will show the process of preparing and using photographic reference to create realistic human characters. Part 1 will show the steps taken in Photoshop with parts 2 and 3 focusing on the methods used in Lightwave. Also available for download with this tutorial is the base mesh used.

Chapter 1: Photoshop


Please wait while this movie loads

Duration: 09 minutes 12 seconds

Get the Flash Player to see this content.

Click Here to Download the Character Head Base Mesh | Size: 64kb

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Making of The Lighthouse

References

So I found this lighthouse. It is a weather control station in Kiel, Germany. I was glad to find a lot of references. Since I could find a lot of references, I tried to put as many things in my scene, as there are in real.
While I checked the references, I noticed that they show the lighthouse during different states. Sometimes it was very dirty and sometimes it looked freshly painted. There are although differences concerning the water level because of ebb and tide so that I had to decide which state i want to show.
After all I tried to do a mixture from all states.





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Rendering with ZBrush and Photoshop

Hey guys!
I did this image for the GNOMON Gallery Show: COGNOSCO. Feel free to find out more information about the gallery here:http://www.gnomongallery.com/current_show.php

So I used my old “Angel” model and just re-rendered it. Here is the final image:

angel_full_color_1720.jpg

I’ve also created a showcase tutorial article about how to create cool renders using ZBrush and Photoshop.
Let’s get started.

Preparing model and document.
Create new document with size twice as bigger as image you want in result. I do that every time I render any model in ZBrush because in the end I shrink the image at half size to get rid of “jagged” lines. I also press AAHalf button to see a preview for smooth-rendered antialiased image.

double.jpg aahalf.jpg

Set up your model on the canvas as you want to see it rendered. You will need masks for easier selections at further comp stage. So just go through all subtools one by one and export image with Flat render turned on.

flats.jpg

As result you get bunch of images with masking for each separate subtools.

masks.jpg

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